Posted March 27, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options Replies 33 Created 15 yr Last Reply 15 yr. Configurations Your personal needs will determine how you route your tubing.
Method 1: Remove the breather filter from the top and cap it. Pros: Environmentally friendly. Cons: Not as effective as other methods. Method 2: Left side of catch can gets routed to the 10mm hose, while the right side gets stepped down to the 6mm hose. Pros: The most efficient method. Cons: There is a small possibility for a check engine light.
Method 3: One side of the catch can gets hooked up to the crank case while the other is plumbed back into the intake via the crank case valve. BlackT5R Posted March 27, This might help.
OzzyR Posted March 27, BlackBeast Posted March 27, BlackBeast Posted March 28, Posted March 28, Ok, so after reading the bay13 instructions again and Lax's guide im still none the wiser. Below is a pic of the PCV system on my v70, remembering I want to do method 2 bay13 :- 1.
Which hose goes into the left side of the catch can? Which hose goes to the right? Which hoses do I clamp off? Archived This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies. This topic is now closed to further replies. I have recently replaced all the components of the PCV system and it is functioning correctly passes the glove test. Oil visible in intake:. If you do the 3-port one you may need this piece to block off the extra port. To install it I just removed the PCV line where it connects to the intake hose in front of turbo and added lines to the oil catch can from the PCV line and then back from the catch can to the turbo intake line.
I also placed it in a easy to get location in order to empty the catch can. I used clear hosing to keep an eye on oil flow in the lines, however a more oil resistant line would be preferred. Another shot of its mounting location:. If you are debating this and looking for more info on installing an oil catch can there is a lot of good info on the SweedSpeed Forum under these two posts:. This fitting has two ports. The drain port on the left side has a -8 AN Male fitting. The vent port on the right side has a AN Male fitting.
If you're not aware, the Volvo engine block has a long plastic tube inside that extends from that drain port down into the oil sump. The bottom of that tube is submerged in the oil.
Having this drain extended below the oil level ensures that this pipe drains freely and does not get any interference from crankcase pressures. So basically this system is designed so that when an external catch can is installed, the bottom of the can is to be placed somewhere reasonably close to and above the level of this drain port.
This is not always convenient in a Volvo due to tight space, although there are people who have done it that way with good success. The oil drain for this engine block extends down past the oil pump and ends just above the bottom of the oil pan. It's designed to end below the oil level, so it doesn't get affected by elevated pressures from boost in the crankcase.
As you'll see below, I opted to NOT use the drain port on this vent fitting. This is what I used, since my drain is on the other side of the engine. My plan routed the catch can drain down into a Y-fitting that joins with the turbo oil drain just above the block drain. This Y-fitting tends to make things a little complicated down there as you can see here, so some planning was needed for all these AN hose fittings to fit in a small space.
The turbo oil drain that I previously installed uses Summit PTFE lined racing hose , which is a high temperature hose designed for hot oil rated to degrees Fahrenheit. I wanted to use a hose that was rated for high temperature since this stuff is so close to the exhaust manifold and turbo.
Here are the connectors used to assemble this Y-fitting. The Y-fitting has AN male ends. It uses a reducer to -8 AN for the hose that goes up to the breather box. Not shown here is the turbo oil drain seen in above photos , which connects to the other upper end of the Y-fitting. Specific detailed information about the turbo drain hose fitting that fits into the block can be found in a separate article HERE. Assembling PTFE hose ends is not difficult, but you'll need some guidance if it's your first time.
And a good video below. I installed a one-way check valve in the hose between the catch can and the Y-fitting. It needs to be placed so flow goes down only. A check valve is used in this situation because the drain goes into the oil sump above the oil level.
A different option would be if the drain went into the sump below the oil level. This is the check valve. The summit instructions will tell you not to screw with the spring that holds the check-valve closed. I couldn't stop myself. I felt it was too tight, so I tweaked it until it was much easier to push open.
I want this to drain freely and not back up into the catch can. I'm pretty confident in my decision. No problem. Here's another idea below that allows the drain to remain on the exhaust side without a Y-fitting. You may instead place a port on the side of the oil pan.
Keep in mind that it must be below the oil level if you will not be using a check valve. This would eliminate the need for the Y-fitting or check valve, although of course you would need to remove your oil pan to drill a hole.
This bulkhead fitting pictured below would be a good option for a -8 oil drain hose.
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